Friday, August 21, 2009

Event Photography: Wedding

I shot my first wedding a couple weeks ago. Not for fun, but for real. Not "for real," like I was the principal photographer (no way, that's too much stress), but as a second photographer for candids. I learned a lot doing this, and made a ton of mistakes too. Wanted to share some lessons learned, and also picked out a couple shots that made it into my final set and why I chose them.
    Lessons learned
  • Get a fast lens, preferably one with a substantial zoom. I used my 50mm f/1.4 and borrowed a 70-200mm f/2.8 for this event. Glad I did that. Lighting conditions in churches are often fantastically bad, and to get the shot I wanted, I needed a lens that could do event/indoor shots in sub-optimal lighting conditions.
  • I opted for no flash. Partially because I haven't experimented with it and don't feel so good about it. But also because I didn't want to distract those who were attending nor the main players (bride, groom, officiant, etc.). I figured, I would be taking shots of the critical moments. The last thing they want is to see a flash bulb and blue light filling the moment.
  • Think through the shots you want before the event. It'll help you get to the right places so you're not scrambling and tripping over stuff during that important moment. I kicked myself after the actual event because there were a couple good shots that I didn't think through, and consequently didn't get. Total bummer. Jenny reminded me that a picture of the hands (especially as the older people are praying a prayer of blessing and protection for the bride) can communicate really powerfully.

Couple as part of the larger context, but in the background.


Laughter is one of those things that when you catch it, people simply understand it. It's a different quality than saying, "Everyone look here: 1, 2, 3..."


It's just funny seeing how happy the bride is here, in this symbolic gesture of binding the other person to herself. My one regret is not getting closer and framing the shot tighter.


I like it that Pastor Ed Kang is there in the background, clearly smiling, very happy for the new couple, taking their first steps together.

Flash inverse law...what?

This might make your head hurt a little bit but an interesting read and start on flash photography from Dustin Diaz. Although being able to use our 2.8 lenses is nice, I think it's important to understand and learn how to use flash to create shots and do more. Here's a pic I created with some off camera flash lighting and a small softbox.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

How to shoot an event: MYT class 4

Here's the final slides from class 4 from MYT in Photography. The 3 mini-topics were: 1) how to shoot an event 2) how to shoot a classroom setting 3) how to shoot with obstructions

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Exposure slides from class 2 and 3

Alrighty, slides posted! (thank you kev for covering class 2 for me). I added content re: relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture (see slides 22-27), the different metering modes from a Nikon screen (see slide 3). Please email with any questions, as well as further topics that I didn't cover that you would like to see!



[Further Reading]
A Basic Look at the Basics of Exposure

Thursday, July 30, 2009

DIY Bounce "Card" and Barn Door

This is a tutorial that a friend of mine made about how to make your own bounce card/barn door for your flash. He's a canon shooter and did this for his 580EXII. pretty slick. it only cost him $2. And he gave me one for free! Of course, I bought him a hot chocolate at Starbucks to thank him. =)
You can find the original link here if you'd like:
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22692750-Stofen-upgrade
Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

Friday, July 24, 2009

Composition slides from MYT class 1

I got the slides posted, finally, from our first class. Take a look to refresh your memory about what we went over. For those who couldn't make class 1, please look it over before class 2.

Which picture(s) did you like, and why did you like them?



[Further Reading]
A Basic Look at the Basics of Exposure

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Welcome! Gracepoint MYT Photography, Session 2

Hello everyone!

We're going to spend 4 Fridays together learning the craft of photography! I hope you're excited. I'm excited and a little nervous and humbled to be able teach you all, to tell you the truth.

I got started with photography in 1997 when I was still in college. I had a paid summer internship and so in the Fall of 1997, I bought my first SLR (single-lens-reflex) camera through the mail, bought a box of film at the student store, and shot like crazy, at really anything that moved. What I wanted to accomplish with a camera was document what my eyes saw. My favorite subject then was people within their context (more photo journalistic rather than portrait), their expressions, and their emotions. Taking pictures of people is still the most interesting subject for me.

Now I shoot with a little digital Canon P&S (point and shoot) and a couple of larger digital Nikon SLR for larger events such as G-Live or retreats or mission trips.

Please share with me what camera (and lens if it applies) you will be using, and 1 thing you want to learn to do after our 4 weeks together. Also please feel free to ask me any questions that you might have, and I'll try to answer it for you. I'll be mainly corresponding through this blog.

For the first class you don't have to bring your cameras.

Thanks and I'm looking forward to hearing from you all.

Dennis.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Polarized Filters

I was at Lake Chabot this past weekend with my friends Jim and Kevan so I thought i would try out a polarized filter that i borrowed from a friend.  I'm posting the same photo taken with the exact same parameters but only adjusting the ring of the polarized filter less than a 1/4 turn.  Take a look. Pay close attention to the color of the sky and the definition of the clouds. 
Lastly, here's the pic of the one who got away. It was a behemoth of a fish.  Large striped bass.  Here are some pics from far away.  The filter allowed me to take shots directly through the water, nearly impossible without it.  I was about 100 feet away on the top of a hill peering straight down. 

Thursday, July 9, 2009

ND Filter

During my last trip to Yosemite I decided to try using an ND Filter throughout my trip.  At the suggestion of Ken Rockwell, I went for the Tiffen 77mm ND .6 filter - pretty cheap off of amazon. I guess you could describe it as sunglasses for your lens.  It helped to bring down the shutter/aperture to a more "normal" range for one so that I didn't have to have crazy shutter speeds to compensate for the brightness of the scene. 
But I think the best usage for me was capturing some of the incredible waters of Yosemite.  The ND filter allowed me to really dial down my shutter to something like 1/8 or 1/5 so that I could capture some great pics of water flowing and looking slightly surreal and ghostly.  Of course, this would have been ideal with a tripod but I made the best of it I could. 

Flickr Slideshow

Here's a quick post of how I do a collection of pics.  To be honest I know I overuse this but it's a quick/fast way for me to show off the pics from a trip without having to tell much of a story.  I wish I had the time to do what Kairos did with their journey through their trip with pics, which I love.  Also, at the end of their photo journal they have a cool array of pics which they did with a Wordpress Plug-in called Flickr Gallery.  
Anyway, one website I use to generate slideshows like the one below, is Flickrslidr.  You go to the website and fill out the simple form, which basically takes your flickr photo set and generates this nifty little slideshow with iframes. 
Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

Been a little busy...

Ok, trying to keep things on track here. I haven't posted but i've been taking pictures like mad in the past few weeks. i ran up about 700 clicks on my trip to Yosemite. I think i ended up posting about 200.
We'll be starting our 2nd session of MYT next week. In the meantime i'm going to drop a couple of posts about number of actuations and I'm going to reference a few Aperture tutorials.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

The Power of an Image

Interesting read from Breakpoint today re: the power of an image.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Shooting an Event

Slides posted from last week's MYT Photography class below:



I included 3 different types of events as examples:

1) overnight group event (slide 2 and on)
2) smaller group evening event (slide 79 and on)
3) large event like Gracepoint Live (slide 91 and on)

Also there's pointers on how to shoot classroom settings (slide 59 on) as well as how to deal with common obstruction difficulties such as a pillar being in the way.

Some of the pictures I used in the slides are from the Official White House Photostream (found site via Kevan's post). Its very interesting to find out all the exposure information (shutter speed, aperture, ISO setting) for each picture, the lens choice and focal length, whether flash was used, etc. (See slides from Exposure class). From what I can tell, this White House official photographer only uses prime lens (prime = non-zoom) such as 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 135mm with a very large maximum aperture. To find out all this info, click on the "More properties" link when you get to flickr. You can learn a lot by seeing how this photographer (Pete Souza) composes his pictures, what he decides to leave in, and how he deals with objects that are in the way, etc. Highly instructive!

Further reading:
11 Tips for Better Candid Photography

Sunday, June 21, 2009

A Quick Intro to Adobe Lightroom

Hello! For those that don't know me, my name is David Park and I'm a junior in Kairos (was previously in a2f Blue). I've been doing photography for about a year now and I'm going to give a quick introduction to Adobe Lightroom (LR). The purpose of this post is two-fold.
  1. Explain my workflow in post-processing (by which I mean everything between taking the picture and making it available to the public).
  2. Give some of my subjective feedback on Adobe Lightroom in light of my experience with iPhoto and Picasa (which are free alternatives programs like Lightroom or Aperture).
My Workflow. Lightroom is different from photoshop in that it was created to be more of a workflow and organizational tool than anything else.
You can see on the top right the five modules (Library, Develop, Slideshow, Print, Web). I usually only use the first two which organizes your photos and edits them (respectively). The above screenshot shows the Library module. The folders you see to the left are exactly how the folders are also set up on your computer, which means when you make changes in Lightroom, the changes will be reflected in Finder or Windows Explorer. Lightroom makes it pretty easy to import your images. It's just a matter of plugging in your camera and clicking import.
After importing my images, I make an initial visual scan of all my pictures. The awesome thing about Lightroom is that it allows you to easily flag your pictures either as Pick, Unflagged, or Rejected (using the hotkeys P, U, and X). After going through it once, Command+Delete will delete all the "Rejected" photos, clearing up your hard drive of unwanted pictures. You can already see how Lightroom would help in organizing photos. There are also a bunch of other keywording, tagging, and other labeling options available in Library mode that I don't use.
The above screenshot shows you what the Develop module looks like. The left sidebar has a bunch of presets that come with Lighroom. You also have the option of creating your own presets. Basically if you click on a preset, it changes the sliders on the right to whatever you chose that preset to be beforehand. The sliders to the right are the brunt of the editing that Lightroom allows you to do. They're taken from Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) for those of you familiar with that plugin. From this point on, I'll take you through the editing of this image (I chose a JPEG though I shoot exclusively in RAW. I think a lot of people still use JPEG so I'll work with the limitations of JPEG. The JPEG vs. RAW discussion is another discussion that's worth a whole new post). Baby at Bhat Veng Here's the original unedited JPEG. In all pictures, I check composition, white balance, and exposure.
  • Composition: The question is... should I rotate or crop this photo? In this photo I chose not to do anything.
  • White balance: My first thought is "it's good enough." Unless the white balance is really off or unless I'm trying to intentionally make it warm or cold, I sometimes just leave this until after I work on exposure. I may want to make this picture a bit warmer, but for now I'll leave it as is.
  • Exposure: When I took this, the baby was in the shade and the background, which happens to be the ground, was in the sun so this left the baby underexposed. I want to increase the exposure to properly expose the baby.
Since the background on the picture is well exposed, just increasing the exposure will completely blow out the background. So instead, I pushed up the fill light slider which lightens up the darker areas. I also increased the "recovery" slider which takes bright highlights (the background) and makes them darker. This results in a very "washed out" looking image since the contrast (difference between darks and lights) has effectively been reduced. To compensate, I increased the contrast slider also.
Changing the sliders can often cause colors to look unnatural and in this case, I wanted to take away some of the color that came in because of increasing contrast. So I lowered the vibrance slider (this would be equivalent of decreasing saturation on the new iPhoto and checking "avoid saturating skin tones." In addition, I increased the clarity, which adds more detail and looks the picture look a bit more "gritty" (this is called "definition" in iPhoto). And with those adjustments here is the final image:
The great thing about Lightroom is that you can take specific edits that you did on an image and save them as a preset. You can also easily do batch editing. For example, if I took pictures of an indoor event and had to consistently underexpose and had incorrect white balance, then I can just edit one picture to correct exposure and white balance and then batch edit the rest, no matter how many there are. Side note: all the edits I did on this picture, I kept limited to edits you could replicate in free programs such as Picasa and iPhoto. I'll write another post later on showing you the edits I did using the more powerful tools in Lightroom which is what gave me this picture: 30hrfamine_1 However, I do want to say that I believe the Lightroom basic adjustments work better than either iPhoto or Picasas. That is to say that if you did the same exact adjustments using iPhoto, you wouldn't get the same result. Of course, the saying "you get what you pay for" does stand even in the case of post-processing. I'm really happy with Lightroom and what I can do with it and I "can't go back to iPhoto or Picasa" because I've grown used to it. However, whatever program you use, it's about getting used to that program (iPhoto '09 is actually VERY powerful for a free program). That is all for now!

Thursday, June 18, 2009

How do I ... ?

In the beginning of Photography MYT, about half the class wanted to know "How DO I take better pictures??" I think the class on composition especially helped for that. So given that we've gone over EXPOSURE and COMPOSITION now, what's next??

How do I ... You tell me! We'll be posting some useful articles in the weeks ahead for y'all.

Composition Examples

I'm posting the slides I used last Friday for our Photography MYT class. In these slides are many professional photographs so that you can see how the pros do it. They just so it so well as you'll see.

The topic was composition, which is essentially the art of arranging all the stuff that's in your picture. I didn't cover all the composition principles, but there are many in there.

There's over 100 slides, so as you go through them, tell me if you can, which slide or picture did you like, and why did you like it? What drew you to it?



Further reading:
5 Elements of Composition in Photography
5 More Elements of Composition in Photography

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Lost your camera manual?

I have a box where I put all my manuals ... from microwave to rice cooker to IKEA furniture. I have my camera manuals there too. If you lost your manual, just download it from the web!

Here's some sites for some of the cameras we're using in MYT: Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Sony and Fuji

For the MYT students, please familiarize yourselves with your particular camera's manual so that you can refer back to it when you need to. Let me know if there's any questions ...

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

MYT Slides Posted

I'm posting the slides I used last Friday for my students in the Photography MYT (Multiply Your Talents) class.


The main topic I talked about was exposure. Exposure is the total amount of light collected onto your camera's sensor in order to create that picture. An over-exposed picture is a situation where too much light is collected, and an under-exposed picture is a situation where too little light is collected. (In time, we may have our own preferences as to liking a slightly over-exposed or under-exposed picture for a given subject, but in general the leeway is no more than a couple of stops before the photo is neither usable nor simply pleasing to look at.)

In this first example, the photo is under-exposed. The people are in shadow and you can't really tell what colors are what. Note that the background is not under-exposed however. The exposure settings used were: 1/125s (shutter speed), f/7.1 (aperture), ISO unrecorded (unfortunately). This exposure is clearly not sufficient for the picture.


1/125s, f/7.1, ISO unrecorded

For this second picture, more exposure was used. You can clearly see the blue jacket now, and the skin tones are nice and clear. Note the background however: the ocean and the hills have lost quite a bit of detail and are now over-exposed; it was a good trade off since I didn't fill-flash on my Canon P&S (read more on fill-flash here and here). I chose to expose for the people (in the foreground) over the water and hills (in the background). The exposure settings used were: 1/160s (slightly faster shutter speed than the first), f/2.8 (much larger aperture opening than the first), ISO still unrecorded (but unchanged from the first).


1/160s, f/2.8, ISO unrecorded

Got a question? Just post a comment and I'll field them that way so that everyone can learn ...

Now for the more technically inclined, the increased amount of light used in the second picture is almost 3 stops (compared with the first picture). This amounts to almost 8 times the light collected onto the sensor (calculated from this table), which explains why the under-exposure on the people was able to be corrected. In general, you can see that it was the aperture that did the trick (f/7.1 --> f/2.8). In other words, the aperture opening got bigger, thus allowing more light in. The shutter speeds are very close together and not a big contributor to the exposure being corrected (1/125s --> 1/160s).

Higher learning:
Learning about Exposure - The Exposure Triangle
Exposure in Photography

Black Rapid R-strap

Kev pointed me to this strap and i think it's awesome.  It's very nice for a lot of active photography.  I took it to Magic Mountain this past week and it really kept me mobile.  It was easy to move from my hip to take a pic right away and I didn't have to worry about it awkwardly banging into everything.  
here's a video from the manufacturer:

Friday, June 5, 2009

Flash fill-in part2

Just wanted to follow up with Maurice's post with some different scenarios in which i've tried to use flash. A key principle I try to use with flash is that i want to make the shot look like there was no flash. i hate the extra shine and bouncing light that i see from a lot of flash-driven shots. This is the beauty of being able to manually adjust your settings. Again, I don't have a lot of before/after pictures that are identical but I have a few sample shots that show these principles.

Basically there are 2 principles to keep in mind. Actually 4 according to zack arias, but i think these are the easiest to start with.

  1. Shutter Speed - controls ambient exposure (background)
  2. Aperture - controls flash exposure (how bright the flash lights up the scene)

Setting 1 - indoors with low light. You want to light up the whole scene - not just the subjects in the foreground. You want to include the background. Aperture around f/4 is good. play with it for necessary lighting that you want.

  • Lower the shutter speed - like 1/20, 1/30
  • the first picture has a shutter speed of 1/100
  • the second picture has a shutter speed of 1/30 and the background comes in a lot more.

Setting 2 - outdoors and heavily back-lit. This is right from Mo's tutorial.

  • Key here is to increase the Shutter speed and decrease aperture.
  • the first picture shows a great background but my daughter's face is a little dark b/c it's caught in the shadow. look at the railing. this was at 1/320 and f/16 but no flash. any more adjustments and i would have blown out the background although she would have been lit better.
  • I added the flash here with the same settings and you can see how well and evenly it's lit-up. I would say part of this is b/c of the Nikon TTL, which rocks, in my humble opinion.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

What's Your Gear?

Definitely, this is one of the most-oft asked questions for photographers. What gear do you use and why? Of course, like most fields, it's not the gear, but it's the person behind the gear that is important. Having said that there are some nice features that new gear offers. As technology advances, prices rise and drop, and as skills get refined, we have many more options and variables to consider when we are purchasing a piece of equipment. We may have some gear that is beyond our needs and understanding or we may crave more functionality. Anyway, i think it's nice to see what gear we use and why. It may save each other money, time and energy in constantly looking for what's out there.

Let's share the following: body we use, primary lens and why and one tool that revolutionized your picture taking.

john
Body: Nikon D300
* details: (1.5 crop factor, cmos, 12mp, 6fps, w. grip 8fps, 3in lcd, 51pt AF). low-noise level is amazing at high isos. at 1600-3200 indoors is beyond belief.

Lens: 17-35 2.8 Af-s
* this is my primary lens b/c for a non full-frame it gives me a great wide angle and some nice close-ups in a small room setting. for larger venues, like auditoriums or large group gatherings i have to go longer. but for in your living room or home it's great.

Tool:
* for me it would be my flash - sb600. just changed all my indoor low-light pictures. if i could afford the luxury and price, i'd get the sb900.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Just Got a New Camera?

With the advent of the dSLR, the landscape of photography has changed. Especially b/c of the dropping prices, everyone is getting in on the action. We definitely want to give you some food for thought through our posts and so we'll be discussing techniques and topics that range a whole lot just b/c we're interested in different aspects of photography.

But I know there are some guys - like a first year student at Berkeley - who just got a dSLR and has a ton of questions. And we don't want to re-invent the wheel when there are a whole lot of good resources out there already. So I thought I'd drop this simple primer.

For those interested in off-camera lighting, I'd like to point you to BootCamp II that Strobist is hosting. You definitely want to start on the Lighting101 and 102 before you dive into this one though.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

A flash of sunlight

A quickie on using a flash/strobe: Daytime 'fill-flash.'

Have you ever had this situation? It's bright outside, so you figure your photo will look great. You aim, use auto, and fire - and, your subjects are dark, like in this test photo (taken at Pedernales Falls in Texas):


What's a day-time shooter to do? Surprise - flash use is not limited to the indoors! Whenever your background is brighter than your foreground, and you use auto-exposure, the foreground will end up darker than you would like. This type of situation is called being "back-lit." Sometimes the brightness contrast between fg/bg is too great, so you have to simply choose to expose for the foreground, and consequently "blow-out," or overexpose, the background (you could expose for the background as well, and "block-up," or underexpose, the foreground, but this is rarely what is wanted). But when the fg/bg contrast is more manageable, using the flash can help "fill in" the foreground enough to provide a usable photo. Here, I used the on-board flash on my Canon 300D, and while the background stayed the same, the foreground now is much better exposed:

The trees in the background are still kind of hot, but the people in the foreground are much better exposed. This still isn't a great example of flash photography, really, because (a) the foreground could still have used some more flash power (the on-board flash's Guide Number is only about 15 or so), and (b) there is noticeable glare/hotspots on some of the people's faces due to the flash being close to the lens. But given the situation, out in the hills of Pedernales, fill-flash made a photo with an unusable foreground, into a much more usable photo (aside from the horizon being skewed a little to the right =D ).

You can also do this with digicams; hit the flash button until you get the lightning bolt by itself (as opposed to lightning bolt w/ an 'A' on it, or the lightning bolt w/ the no-smoking sign on it) to force the flash. Try it out! Even if the subjects aren't completely in the shade, photographers often use fill-flash to get a little eye sparkle, or to fill in the slight shadows under people's noses, cheekbones, and chins. And if you have any comments or further tips please feel free to comment back. I think John will give a more in-depth treatment on flash in a future post, but I thought this might be a nice end-of-the-week post that could be useful for people's outings over the weekend. Happy shooting!

Monday, May 25, 2009

Affordable Macro

Nope, not the latest Apple rowboat (har, har), but macro-photography: shooting stuff from a close distance to make it look really big. Often used in nature close-ups of plants and insects, macro photography can be lots of fun, providing a different perspective on subjects, and is a nice addition to one's quiver of photographic tools.

To give a bit of the tech background: one characteristic of a lens is its 'minimum focusing distance' (MFD). Due to design constraints (cost, size, product marketing), a given lens is made in such a way that it cannot focus closer than a certain distance from the lens, i.e. MFD. (However, at the other end, all lenses are able to focus to infinity.) A lens' macro capability is described in terms of "reproduction ratio," which is (size of object image on 35mm film) : (actual size of object). . I.e., a 1:1 ratio means that if you are using 35mm film, a 1cm long beetle will have an image that is 1cm long on the physical negative. A 1:2 ratio means the will have an image .5cm long on the negative. The higher the reproduction ratio, the more detail available.

Macro photography for SLRs is a niche market, and macro lenses usually command much higher prices than their non-macro siblings at the same focal length. Canon has a 100/2.8 USM macro lens that retails at $509 from B&H, Nikon has one in a similar focal length (105mm) with VR, that goes nearly $900 - ouch. So, what's a fellow to do if he wants to try out macro? Luckily for us, there are two affordable alternatives:
1. Buy a 'macro body.'
- Pretty much all consumer point-and-shoots these days come with a macro setting. This is one of the most remarkable advantages of modern digicams, that one can switch to macro without having to change lenses. The image quality is not quite as good as on a dSLR of course, but with some of Canon's cheapest Digital Elphs (Amazon.com is a good source) going as low as the $100 range, this is a much cheaper way to play around with macro than the lens options above.
2. Go retro.
- One of the quirks of the Canon EOS system, is that a variety of other lenses can be used on EOS bodies, via use of adapters. One type of lens that can be used in this manner, are Nikon manual focus (MF) lenses. Yup, you can use Nikon lenses on Canon bodies! (the converse is not true, however). While this is a topic that probably deserves its own post, one of the benefits of this is that Nikon had several micro (Nikon's name for macro) lens offerings: 55/3.5, 55/2.8, 105/2.8, 200/4, to name a few, which now, since these lenses are manual focus only, are much cheaper than their AF counterparts. One such lens is the Micro-Nikkor P 55mm F3.5 here:


This lens cost me $25 on Craigslist, and it was in pristine condition. It can go to 1:2 normally, and 1:1 with use of an extension tube, which it came with. Taken right at around 1:1, this shot of a quarter I took captures what is possible with a macro lens:


Another thing you'll notice is the hair-thin depth of field. Since you are so close to your subject, the DoF becomes really narrow, thus macro photography generally requires larger apertures to get the entire object in focus. The high degree of magnification also exaggerates camera movement, so most macro applications also predicate use of a tripod.

There's more to explore about macro, but hopefully this intro discussion and two possible affordable solutions has been useful/interesting! Also, comment back with some neat macro shots you've taken.

Friday, May 22, 2009

End of the Week Post

At the end of the week, right before the long weekend, we all want some entertaining stuff, so here it is. At least what I've found. Figured I could share it with you and clue you in on what I've found interesting recently.

Ross Ching's a time lapse, stop motion, and live action camera kind of guy and has some amazing shots he's put together to a Death Cab for Cutie's song. Way cool video, and totally trendy.

I like the Black Rapids' R-Strap because it frees me up from carrying around a big camera bag, while also protecting the body and lens from swinging out and crashing into nearby objects (which often happens if you're using the standard Canon/Nikon strap that comes with your camera). The R-strap is a camera-fied version of a single point rifle sling that military folks use. I like it because the body and lens are pointed in into the small of your back, out of the way when you're moving through crowds and tight situations. I've seen other folks trying out their own DIY straps to get away from the clunky hanging-around-your-neck situation.

Mike gives some great tips about how to shop for camera gear on his new Petapixel blog. Although the shopping around on Craigslist is really time-consuming, his tips on what to look for and how to be prepared (e.g. looking through the lens, checking the camera sensor, etc.) are very smart. Definitely worth a read if you're purchasing used gear off Craigslist.

Everyone knows by now the (cool) Official White House Flickr Photostream. But I also really like The Big Picture, "News stories in photographs."

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Lesson about VR/IS

Recently, i got a chance to compare a VR lens (IS for Canon) and a non-VR lens.  I was comparing the Nikon 80-200 AF-D (2-ring) 2.8 and the Nikon 70-200 AF-S (Ultrasonic for Canon) VR 2.8.  Granted that the 70-200 lens is the 2nd rev of the 80-200 AF-D (2-ring) lens.

2 different Sunday services.  Unfortunately i didn't have both lenses with me to compare the exact same situation.  In both cases the subject is reading his/her testimony. The lighting was the similar, with the first setting possibly having more lighting.  I was standing on a chair about 100ft away.   So here it goes:

80-200 AF-D
exif: iso1250 2.8 1/125  0ev 200mm 

70-200 VR
exif: iso500 2.8 1/60  0ev 200mm


Zooming in we can see some more noise detail:





I was personally shocked about the kind of noise difference that one can see.  This was largely due to the fact that I was able to decrease the iso (from 1250 to 500) b/c i was able to shoot at 1/60 versus 1/125.  why?  b/c of the VR.  otherwise there would have been too much shake. Thanks VR!

I still have a long way to go still but it was nice to try to see how these 2 kinds of lenses can produce such different results.  Of course with some more post-processing and some noise ninja i'm sure i could do better. =)


Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Are all Memory Cards Created Equal?

I used to think that I should just get the cheapest one out there.  Then I thought ok, what about the fastest one? And then I ran into another very "scientific" article.  I appreciate Rob Galbraith's work on this subject.  He took out a lot of the guess work for me.  He takes into account the speed of your camera bus and then the speed of your card.  Right now I'm using a Transcend 4GB 300x and my backup is an Sandisk Extreme III.  Usually I'm OK unless I decide to shoot RAW.  Then I really choose my shots more carefully or I end up doing a lot more deleting on the fly.  

UV Filter or Not to UV Filter - that's the question

Do I really need a filter? OK, if I do, then does it matter which one I get?  Is there a real difference?  Well, I suppose that you can answer this in a couple of ways.  I've asked friends, photographers and even went to the internet via forums and web searches and everyone has different opinions- just to protect your lens, just polarizer and ND, digital doesn't care about uv, lens flare, etc....  And I wanted a slightly more scientific approach. So i found this article.

They used a spectrophotometer to measure the quality of the filters.  Talk about scientific!  And of course, they did some real life testing with the various filters.  I thought it was a helpful/useful test.  I'm going to test one of their suggest filters.  I found one on ebay for $30, so not a bad investment/test since an el cheapo Tiffen costs about $10.

Here's what I look for mainly for UV filters:
Multiple coating - Why? Biggest practical reason is that my kids touch my filters and get their fingerprints all over it. yuck. but the multiple coating makes it easier to wipe away the fingerprints.

Mainly, i've been using it for lens protection.  From my basic experience, I've found the quality of the filter does affect your outdoor shooting as the article shows with the various pictures.